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The terminal style shown on the batteries are called F2 spade terminals. The connectors that fit them are called 0.25" spade terminal connectors and they can be found in the electrical section of a lowes or a home depot

It would have to be in a parallel and then series connection style, but yes you can make it work. We also have a solution for a simplified setup available - a pair of 12V 20AH AGM batteries that can be wired in series to get you where you need to be. www.techbatterysolutions.com/24-volt-20ah-electric-scooter-agm-battery-replacement-kit/

I ask because I have a couple of these (16 total HR1221) from a UPS that was decommissioned. I know I'd have to do a combo of series to up the voltage to 24v (pairing two) then running those pairs in parallel to up Ah and capacity. I don't know if I could fit more than 6-8 so I'm looking at making a 15-20Ah pack.

You will want to select the charging mode that corresponds with the chemistry of the battery, so if its a flooded choose the standard 12V mode

Sounds like a c connection issue between the charger and the battery, are the battery clamps connected directly to the terminal of the battery? Do you know how discharged the battery is? If its below 2V then trying the force mode on the charger may be your best bet.

It would damage the battery over time due to the in-correct charging voltage.

Negative, it's been my experience that you will actually end up under charging the battery. The charger uses the voltage level of the battery to determine where it is in the charging process. My assumption here is that by having more than a single bank hooked up to the battery will artificially raise the voltage to much and trick both banks into shutting down earlier than needed to get a full charge into the battery.

Thats an extremely low voltage to be seeing on the new battery. The Power Wheels toy itself will not drain the battery past 10.5V maximum which leads me to believe that you may have an issue with that charger. Have you gotten a volt meter on the charger yet to see what its putting out?

@@HighTechBatterySolutionsInc Yes the charger is jumping around between 5 and 17.

@@djfloth How long did you leave the battery on charge, and by new 12V battery - it was purchased this year?

A couple days. Yes, new this year.

@@djfloth I'm leaning towards the charger being the issue. If the new battery had a faulty cell you would see evidence of it during your first use.

I would recommend getting the battery tested ASAP to eliminate the battery as being the issue first and foremost. If the battery is testing good, then I would suggest contacting the company that installed the interlock to see why the drain is so high. We have seen this a few times, sometimes customers are able to take the vehicle back in to get an adjustment made to the interlock to either draw less, or not draw at all until the key is engaged.

Unfortunately not, we only sell the batteries themselves for this unit.

On the smaller side of 30 to 40AH capacity, these are usually flooded batteries so you would use the standard 12V mode.

Yes, I recommend letting it charge fully until the green light is solid. Once its solid you can kick it into the recondition mode if you think the battery needs it.

Came home to a blank charger and it won't do anything...... It just keeps going to standby after about 5 seconds...I think it's broken on the second time of using

@@benc1439 Did it go back to standby mode after you tried the recondition mode, or was it on the standard charge mode?

Yeah I put it into repair mode, it flashes 6 times then goes to standby. It seems to just go to standby whatever I do. It had gone blank when I came to it after leaving it on standard charge mode

@@benc1439 I recommend trying it on another battery, if you get the same results thats going to be a charger issue for sure then. It's normal for the charger to go back to standby mode once the repair mode is wrapped up.

The origin OR series batteries are true deep cycle batteries designed for high cycle wheel chair use. These batteries have over 25% longer expected life span than a general purpose URB or UB series group U1 AGM battery.

In order to find out why you need to test both the battery and the charger to find out the issue...

But why is it not charging? That's what the title eludes to.

@@kateworkman4040 Test the charger with a voltage meter, if the charger is working. Test the battery, if the battery is fully charged and the toy is still not running them you have an issue with the toy. If the battery is not fully charged after being on the charger for 8 to 10 hours and you know the charger is working, then its a battery issue.

If it's a lead acid scooter battery pack chances are it has a pair of 12V batteries in it. Single battery packs are usually lithium and must be replacement with another lithium battery.

The spacers are used to separate each row of batteries for each other to help disperse heat buildup in the pack.

You can start the vehicle with the charger hardwired without an issue as long as the charger is disconnected from AC power. Keep in mind that the NOCO GENIUS series needs access to AC power in order to charger your car battery, so in a majority of airport parking garages I've been in there was no access to power. That being said you can hardwire this unit without an issue. NOCO also makes the GENIUS2D which is a smaller 2A charger but its completely sealed and will be unaffected by water and grime from the road.

Yes, the NOCO GENIUS10 charger does need to be plugged in to function. Keep in mind that this is an AC powered battery charger - its not a jump starter and does not have an internal battery.

Here at the shop we only use the repair mode if there's a problem with the battery. If a customer brings in a battery that was left sitting discharged for a period of time, if a battery is having trouble retaining voltage, or if we see a reduced capacity in a battery that doesn't match up with its age and use.

You can however it may time out on this charger depending on how far down the batteries are drained. Keep in mind that this charger is only putting out 2 amps per bank.

I would recommend checking the manual for the charger - that LED sequence means there is an issue either with the charger or the batteries.

Its a Philips head screw driver - I suggest getting a long neck version to reach the deep seated screws at the back of the case.

@@HighTechBatterySolutionsInc Thanks Got the case apart and find I have bought 2 batteries with different connections to the one I have is there any connectors I can buy

That means the battery is at the 90% charge level and is being trickle charged up to the 100% state of charge level.

Yes, once the charger has brought the battery up to fully charged it will then go into its maintenance mode automatically.

A follow on, as I am using it now on some old agm's: When will you know when charging is completed? I've had one on my noco10 for about 5 hours and the green light just keeps pulsing slowly. When it switches to maintenance mode, does the color ribbon do something differently, essentially telling you when best effort charging is completed?

It should be blinking - thats a sign the repair mode is engaged. It takes about 4 hours to complete and once its done the charger will return to standby mode.

You would select the charger setting that matched the chemistry of the battery you're trying to charge. Once the battery is fully charged then the unit will kick over into its maintenance mode automatically.

You would select the standard flooded 12V charge model for EFB series batteries.

@@HighTechBatterySolutionsInc Can you tell me why the LED indicates Green(full), as I was standing there and watched, the LED goes back to tje first Red LED, then go up to Green again, then back down to (first) LED? Can I leave it plugged in for days or wks?

Sounds like there is an issue with the battery retaining a charge, I recommend getting it testing to see whats going on.@@GuruSan88

This is a perfect time to use the dedicated supply mode of the charger - its designed specifically for this scenario.

No, leaving the GENIUS10 charger connected to your battery will not over charge it.

The snowflake mode should be used in cold temperatures in general. The mode will still put the charger into its maintenance mode once the battery is fully charged. It essentially delivers a bit of a higher rate of charge to compensate for the affects cold weather has on the charging process.

Unfortunately not, the operating temperature for this unit is -4F. The lowest operating threshold for a charger that we are knowledgeable on is the CTEK MUS 4.3 Polar model which can operate in -22F. www.techbatterysolutions.com/ctek-mus-4-3-polar-battery-charger-56-958/

Thats correct, leave the charger in the correct charge mode for the chemistry of the battery you are charging and it will go into maintenance mode once the charge cycle is complete.